We stood on the ice dunes of the glaciers of Alaska in the midst of a snowy winter. Trekking the slopes of another planet had been on our list for a long time. The silence and majesty of the mountains surrounding us, the bluest ice we had ever seen and the steady rush of ice turned to water. How did we get here? We met Rick by chance on a rainy road in Seward, Alaska. He had a worn work jacket, a great white beard and the friendliest demeanor two travelers could ask for. He turned out to be the skeleton key to the locked treasure that was our way into Exit Glacier. We had the entire ice field to ourselves. And a sole chance to tell its story. So we took it.